Fragrance 101: #1 – How to Choose a Scent That’s Right For You

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

fragrance 101 with Roja Dove

When I met Roja Dove recently I got to hurry him away to a secluded sofa to put a few questions to him about how to choose a fragrance. His answers were typically informed, inspired and I think, really helpful. I’m going to split his words of wisdom out across a couple of posts, as there’s quite a lot to digest, so today we’re taking a look at how to begin the process of choosing your ideal scent.

One thing I know lots of women are so confused about is picking a perfume that’s right for them. We’re all swayed by marketing and ad campaigns and you can read note and accord descriptions till the cows come home, think you’ll like the resultant scent – and this has often happened to me – but when you smell it, you absolutely hate it. On paper, I really thought I’d love Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gioia for example, but when I got to try it, I really didn’t. It just didn’t do it for me.

So this is the huge challenge in the first instance: how do you wade through the colossal amount of products out there to find your ideal scent?

(more…)

Student Style: Yellow Fever With Rimmel Sunshine & Catrice Don’t Feed The Birds

Friday, August 13th, 2010

yello nail varnish from rimmel and catrice

What with being stuck inside at work all the time these days, I’ve been missing out on 90% of the summer sunshine. When you wear a uniform of solid black and your place of employment has little or no natural daylight, what better way to grab some of that bright breeziness than via psychedelic nail colour?

I decided to pit Rimmel’s I Love Lasting Finish in Sunshine, €4.53, against Don’t Feed the Birds, €2.79, by Catrice. Both looked canary yellow on the shelf, but upon application were quite different – and I really liked them both.

Sunshine was a surprise to me, as it dried a shade or two darker than it appeared in the bottle. A strong primary yellow, it took three coats to evenly cover my nails, but there was no smudging (although I did keep my hands in the air for a full five minutes after application). I didn’t use a top coat to seal it, but the varnish didn’t chip at all and every time I glanced at my hands it made me feel like I’d been finger-painting. Oh, I should be so lucky!

Don’t Feed the Birds was a different story; upon closer inspection, I spied that this was a very shimmery, almost sheer polish with a gold sheen. It dried to an almost mustard-yellow hue, and I had to apply a few coats to get beyond the Smoker’s Fingers effect – but it was only byooriful once I’d done that. My favourite aspect, as with all Catrice polishes, was the drying time – this hardens like a rock in about a minute.

So, which did I prefer? I couldn’t decide – and then a stroke of genius hit me. Layering the glittery atop the matt gave the desired effect of strong colour and subtle sparkle. The perfect summer nail colour for under €7.50 – yes please!

A Very Modern Mystery: Indole and Cultural Attitudes Towards Hair Removal

Tuesday, August 10th, 2010

scent

Last week’s meeting with the man they call The Nose, Roja Dove, threw up more than freebie fragrances, Neutrogena-product-introductions and a lovely Four Seasons lunch: as we ate we got chatting about all things fragrant and the topic turned to how scent can be used as an attractor. This works on two levels really: one, the knowing brain basically likes the notes in the scent someone is wearing, and two, the limbic system, which is the primitive, sex-fuelled part, picks up on and responds to certain smells because of what they contain; namely pheromones.

Roja revealed that certain flowers like jasmine contain a substance called indole, which, fact fans, is also present at the root of pubic hair. Essentially, indole is a sex attractor and it’s one of the things the primitive brain uses as a marker to hone in on when seeking a mate; it’s equally what makes some fragrances attractive to the opposite sex.

Scent and attraction is a pretty fascinating topic all on its own, but this got me me thinking (in an urgh, Carrie Bradshaw-style way) about the bizarre state of affairs the modern gal fond of a little garden maintenance finds herself in. We live in a hyper-sexualised society where women can feel pressurised to remove every scrap of body hair, and thanks to the easy availability of porn, it often seems to me we’re breeding generations of men who expect women to have bolt-on breasts and completely smooth erogenous zones.

All it takes the average female is a look at her own breasts with natural drop and her oops-I-really-need-to-shave-’em legs to appreciate the fallacy. And the irony of excessive hair removal, is of course, that with the hair gone, so is the sex attractor. The Brazilian-or Hollywood-based contemporary standard of sexiness remains, but hey, you can’t fool the limbic system.

Hairy men are seen as virile yet women are pressurised to remove hair – clearly, when you read about the power of  scent and attraction you can see what a double-standard there is, and equally how it’s such an artificially- and culturally-constructed one to boot.  Magazines and peer pressure to depilate may tell you one thing about what’s considered sexy, but your nose – and your brain – know better.

Interesting, eh?

Girl Talk: Thierry Mugler to Launch Womanity

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

womanity press launch

Clarins – which owns the Thierry Mugler brand – really knows how to keep beauty writers happy. Secret Weapon Grade I [code name Claude] sold the new Everlasting Foundation to a room full of ladies who suddenly found the environs terribly warm. This time around, in order to sway us to the ways of Womanity, Thierry Mugler's latest fragrance, Secret weapon Grade II made a dashing appearance.

Otherwise known as Clive, I'm starting to think Clarins France is just packed full of handsome, charming and gregarious men bred for their ability to dazzle and explain cosmetics in sexy accents.

Before we go any further, lets have a little chat about the name, shall we? It's kinda cringey, but there is method to Mugler's madness: the fragrance is supposed to encompass all ages, races and creeds of the laydeez, so it's a mix of woman (no, really) and humanity. Yeah. I did a scrunchy up face thing too when I read about this on WWD way back in April. Well, it's out there now so we just have to deal, and anyway, this is Thierry Mugler - he's got a scent called Alien, so he's hardly shy when it comes to off-beat naming choices.

The perfume itself is built from three notes, and in classic do-it-differently Mugler style, it's a gourmand hybrid of sweet and salty.  Two of the notes are fig and figgy wood; sweet and incense-like respectively. They're very nice actually, but it's the third note that really strikes the difference in this scent. It's caviar.

Yes, that's right. Womanity contains a caviar note.

(more...)

Tan Trials 10: Tan Organic Professional In-Salon Spray Tan Review

Friday, July 30th, 2010

tan organic review

By now, Irish readers have probably heard of Tan Organic a time or twenty. A Dragon’s Den success story, Kirstie gave us the lowdown on Tan Organic following a meeting with the tan’s creator, Noelle O’Connor, back in May, and since then I’ve given both the professional in-salon airbrush version and the consumer DIY at-home version a whirl.

First up for review: the pro-applied spray.

I was advised to exfoliate well and moisturise the night before, but not the day of, my tan – I duly spent two nights scrubbing my skin raw to remove old tan build-up and dead skin cells, and lashing on moisturiser to ensure my skin was in prime condition. The application process itself was similarly fairly standard.

Standing in a small dedicated tanning room in some snazzy disposable knickers and with my hair out of the way in an equally fetching hair net, my therapist instructed me to assume various positions as she sprayed me with the lighter coloured “Caramel” tinted liquid from top to toe. She then gave me a hand-held dryer with which to dry the freshly applied tan.

It was a good job that she did: the aloe vera base means this stuff takes quite a while to dry.

(more…)

Roger & Gallet Huile Sublime Bois D’Orange: to inhale me is to love me

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

roger and gallet bois sublime

We brought you the news a couple of weeks ago that French brand Roger & Gallet had newly landed on these shores and now we’re nearly delirious with happiness that we’ve gotten our hands on the products.

Let me kick off with Huile Sublime Bois D’Orange.

I love dry oils. Love them to death. Love the Nuxe Dry Oil so much I’m on my third bottle.

And now here’s another beautiful dry oil from another French brand. The scent is absolutely astounding – fresh, citrussy and with more mellow orange than I would have thought possible. They say it’s “an olfactory journey through the Andalusion gardens of the Alhambra ” Mandarin orange, bergamot, verbena and orange blossom are all blended into a fragrance that is not overpowering – just warm and summery and delicious.

The oil itself is deeply nourishing and jam-packed with six different plant oils: argan oil; camelia oil; macadamia oil; evening primrose oil; sesame oil and almond oil

Spray it on your skin (use a good dollop for effective moisturising, less if you just want a light touch of moisture and the scent on your skin). This also works well on hair and apparently face (I haven’t tried in on my face yet).

And you know what? I don’t have it any more. Every time I brought it out to show someone (which was often: I have a habit of bringing new products I really love around in my handbag, as I can’t bear to be parted from them. Go on, mock.) And eventually someone sighed and loved it so much and looked so sad when it was time for Bois D’Orange to go back into my bag that I had to give it to her.

Bah! What can I say, I’m a soft touch. So now I’ll have to get another one: my love I won’t make that mistake again, this time you’re staying firmly on my bathroom shelf.

  • Where can I buy it? Available at 80 pharmacies country wide – check the Stockist list for more info
  • How much does it cost? €25 for 100mls
  • What would you compare it to? It’s a dry oil like Nuxe Huile Prodiguese but has a delicious orange scent

Green and Gorgeous: L’Occitane Verbena Summer Secret EDT

Friday, July 23rd, 2010

L'Occitane verbena

Lots of fragrance this week, eh? That’s cos it’s fragrance season: this time of year, all the brands send out samples or press releases for their new-season launches, most of which will hit counters come September in time to build a head of steam for the Christmas market.

And one of the things you lot asked us recently when Aphrodite asked what you’d like to see more of on the blog was that you’d like more on scent. So while we’re genuinely trying, I’ve got to admit, I just don’t like the majority of the big-name spritzes that come to market at the moment. I’ve yet to meet a celebrity scent I really went for and the current propensity for sweet, musky, floriental, creamy, vanilla-y and heady is absolutely the antithesis of my personal preferences.

Scent is so polarising – way more than any other beauty product – and in order to not look like a negative nelly, I tend not to feature fragrance unless I absolutely love it, because it’s just hard to write about something I’m not madly gone on, but which I’m well aware will be 100% acceptable to another nose. And needless to say, I have to be fussy: my tastes are expensive and tend towards the more niche, which doesn’t remotely represent the majority of you lot, I’m know, so I try not to focus too much on my Tom Ford obsession, either.

All that said, I absolutely love the samples we were sent of L’Occitane’s Verbena line for summer, in particular the Verbena Summer Secret eau de toilette.  I think L’Occitane is a great example of a brand that offers off-kilter scents at good prices – for example, this EDT is €43.95, which is an affordable price for 100ml of scent that’ll help you to stand out a little from the crowd, if you ask me.

And this is exactly the sort of thing I’d pick for myself: it’s sharp, cool, green and very refreshing. My tastes go from green florals to citrus and up to some white florals, and that, my friends, is pretty much it. Waft a vial of Poison, Addict, Opium, Obsession, Flowerbomb or Angel at me and if I don’t run away quick enough, I’ll develop a pounder of a headache. But Verbena contains, eh, yes, verbena, as well as anise, mint and cedar, and those notes really suit my tastes perfectly.

So, if you want to smell like you’ve just stepped out of a cool, grassy meadow then this is the one for you; if, on the other hand, you want to smell like you’ve just sashayed from a grove of tropical night-bloomers, then perhaps avoid.

Me? In case you hadn’t guessed, it’s a firm thumbs up.

Warm Front: Beyonce Heat Fragrance to Launch

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

beyonce heat ring

Beyonce’s debut scent for Coty, Heat, launches in Ireland on August 1st, and while it’s not lighting my fire as a fragrance – but that’s mostly only because I’m just not a fan of woody, musky accords, and there’re a lot of those in there, as well as lots of sweet fruit and floral notes like magnolia, neroli, red vanilla orchid and blush peach – I’ve got props for the packaging, which is a antique-inspired carved-looking flacon that’s a lot prettier in real life than in pictures.

And what I also like is this: in a classic case of life imitating art, you can literally put a ring on it with this launch because there’s a solid perfume jewel available for a select few who’ll be lucky to bag one. A gold-coloured metal ring is topped with a big moulded plastic ruby gem for a take on the classic over-sized cocktail ring. Slide it to one side, and you’ve got a .75g fragrance balm beneath for top-ups on the go.

Sure, we’ve seen these before from brands like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors but what Beyonce’s Heat ring has going for it is that it’s super-duper exlcusive – in fact, it’s only going to be available in Ireland as a FREE gift with purchase at a special launch night at Arnotts on July 29th, and again for a limited period at Christmas.

Oh, and it comes in a cute black patent pouch with ‘B’ shaped charm. Check  after the cut for a look at how the ring looks on my paws, and for some more details on that all-important launch night. (more…)

And on the Third Day it Rose: Calyx is Back!

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

calyx is back!

One of the saddest beauty-related pieces of news we heard last year was the closure of Prescriptives, Estee Lauder’s custom-colour brand and one that was beloved of many a woman who just couldn’t find a foundation shade to suit her.

And of course, when it closed, it took all its lovely products with it (bye bye Super Line Preventer Xtreme), but we did hear a rumour that Calyx, the brand’s signature fragrance, would be moving to another Estee company at some point.

And it has – Aramis and Designer fragrances (which also puts out DKNY, Michael Kors, Sean John and a pile more) has taken on the scent and it’ll re-launch exclusively in Brown Thomas on August 3rd, starting at €65 for a 50ml bottle.

Opening with really sharp green, grapefruit notes, this develops into something a little more woody and oriental, thanks to a base of musks and woods. While I like the opening notes a lot, I actually can’t wear this as the dry-down doesn’t appeal, but then I’m a fussy cow when it comes to scent, and this perfume always had die-hard devotees.

In addition, when it first launched in the 1980s, it was a bit of a revolutionary, and it still smells contemporary now, which you can’t really say for a lot of perfume that launched in the decade style forgot.

Are you a fan?

AW10: Jo Malone English Pear and Freesia Cologne

Monday, July 19th, 2010

tom jones

On one hand, perfume’s really easy to write about – you either like it or you don’t. On the other, it’s a real skill to be able to assess exactly what it is that makes a fragrance so good, and it can be really hard to get that down on paper (or pixels). So you’ll have to bear with me on point two.

While I wasn’t initially sure I’d like the October-launching English Pear and Freesia cologne, from €42, because on first impressions it is quite sweet, all it took was one spritz to confirm that yes, indeed I do. So that’s the easy part. Admittedly, it’s up at the threshold of my tolerance for syrupy scents – and sweet has had a very bad rep the last few years with teeth-achingly cloying releases from tweeny brands like Miss Sixty – but if you’re a fan of white florals and a little bit of citrus then it’s fairly likely you’ll go for this classy take on a light, candied fragrance.

Now the more difficult bit: developed by a perfumer noted for her off-kilter floral concoctions, Christine Nagel, while it’s designed to sit within the family that also houses Pomegranate Noir and Nectarine Blossom and Honey (neither of which I’m mad about), this manages to stave off saccharine sweetness by using some sharp, zesty bergamot as a top note as well as lots of juicy pear and quince, with freesias in the middle, resting on a base of amber and patchouli.

So, the result is fresh, girly and sophisticated with a couple of nice twists by way of patchouli and bergamot. Thankfully -  for me anyway – it’s nowhere near as man-eating as Pomegranate Noir. I’m pretty bolshy, but that scent wears me – and ladies, I am the star of my own show, right?

(more…)

winner best blog and best beauty/fashion blog 2010
beaut.ie is hosted by blacknight

RECENT CHATTER

  • daiseeboo: Aphrodite – I have never heard of Trick Malavey...
  • daiseeboo: Thanks for all the Oasis help girls. Complete forgot...
  • brideandjoy: EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW WWWWWWWWWWWW! That is...
  • baby in a corner: Awh some of the comments are so harsh!
  • OilSlick: I’d love rosso and vino with a more subtle, or no,...
spring summer 2010
makeup swatches

beauty blog network