Last week in the Back to Basics series, we looked at the fundamentals of blush. This week, we're looking at what is probably the most basic - and arguably the most essential - makeup skill; matching your foundation to your skin. After all, no matter how expertly applied makeup may be, if it's the wrong colour, it looks awful. There's no getting around that. It needs to be the same colour as your skin. Always. Of course, the colour of your skin can change with the seasons and with the help of a trusty bottle of tan, but whatever the shade of your skin at a given time, that's the shade your foundation needs to be. And there aren't exceptions to that rule.
Finding a foundation match can be very stressful. Makeup artists on counters have improved enormously over the last fifteen years in both knowledge and customer service, but often their own makeup is intimidatingly good, and the more popular counters in department stores are generally thronged. If you don't feel confident in finding a match yourself, head into a makeup counter before 11am - that way you're likely to get more of the artist's time and there'll be fewer people milling about.
That said, I personally have never been accurately shade matched by a makeup artist on a counter. Ever. Here's photographic evidence of one hilarious shade matching experience I had. Ireland still hasn't quite got over its culture of 'warming up' complexions with a darker foundation. That's not a thing; it looks universally awful. If you want to give that sunkissed look to skin, use bronzer. Your foundation should always, always match your skin.
I think I've said that enough now.
First things first - even if you're not confident with makeup, you are the most qualified person to find a foundation match for yourself. Artists on counters generally work on commission and are obliged to try to sell you things. They are also (pretty much) never going to tell you if their brand just doesn't have a shade match for you. They'll generally try to sell you whatever they have which is close(ish). You can do better than that. If a counter artist's own makeup is too dark or too heavily applied, then they don't know what they're doing and you should avoid them like the plague!
Finding the perfect foundation shade is easier than you think, though you may have to break through your discomfort barrier a bit. Don't wear makeup when shopping for your foundation. Browse through various brands and formulations, and when you see something you like, look carefully at the shade options. Choose three to four which you think may be the right colour for you. I always test the shades the way I was taught when I studied makeup. Take a cotton bud or your finger, and apply a stripe of the foundation vertically on your jawline. Stripe the other possible contenders next to it, then head outside or wherever you can find good natural light. Whip out a compact mirror and look at your face. The stripe which is least visible (ie disappears into your skin) is your shade!
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As you can see, the bottom stripe is the best match!It's as simple as that. It's a slight pain in the bum, but it's worth the effort to get the right shade. High-end foundations in particular are very expensive. It's worth making the extra effort to ensure your money is being invested in the right base.
And don't worry, after a while you won't need to do the stripe test any more. After years of foundation shopping, I can match myself by eye.
You know best what the right shade for you is. If you take your time and check that the colour works in natural light, you'll find the right one. Don't let anyone pressure you into buying anything you haven't put to the test, and remember that it's completely acceptable to ask for a sample of the shade before you buy.
So that's the colour sorted out. Next week, we'll be looking at which foundation formula is the best one for your skin type!
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What do you think? Is this how you shade match foundation, or does the very idea fill you with terror? Which counters have matched you well and which left you looking like your head belonged to a different body? And if you have any foundation questions, post them in the comments below!
For more practical makeup help, check out our tutorials section!
